Don't think I ever did post a follow up to this problem so here it is now that the
GB has officially started.
The pics kind of explain everything. If you aren't aware of the breakage/weight problems, check
this out.
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| Ver. Sephiroth |
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| 1mm drilling as usual. |
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| + cement and epoxy putty |
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| Drilling |
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| Ended up using 4 for strength |
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| Then puttied |
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| Then shaved and sanded. In hindsight I should have left a bit more on for strength but I wanted to make sure that it fit properly. |
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| Works! |
Actually I should say that it
worked. It would later come loose and it disconnected. It didn't
break again... but it is possible for it to slide out and it does sag a bit. It will stay in place but structurally it's not very sound.
I will probably revisit this again as I'd like to fix all the problems with the wings but a lot of it is beyond me. The dragoons snapping open at the slightest touch plus the fully extended wings not really being able to support their own weight... what to do there?
Someone made a sarcastic comment here about how all problems with the model are the fault of the modeler. I disagree. Sometimes things are just designed badly. I think the PGSF wings are ingenious but are actually a little too smart for their own good.
Some of the
locking mechanisms featured on the PG00 would have been really useful here.
No wonder the price for the PGSF has dropped so much!
I myself fell victim to the breakage of TWO vital ABS connectors in the wings of my MG Freedom a few years back (imagine the horror - a wingless Freedom! O_O), thus necessitating a spare parts order for the first time (alleviated, thanks in no small part to GG Infinite:)). That was my greatest modeling accident ever.
ReplyDeleteBut now, with all the complaints about the wing breakage of the PG Strike Freedom and stress-weary joints of the wings in the Master Grade, I'm starting to wonder if it's not a fundamental design flaw of the kits in the first place?
That, or every modeler in the world is a clumsy lummox.
I also wouldn't discount the factor that a great deal of the kit design came from Hajime Katoki - whom half his Ver.Ka kits have serious engineering flaws. I admire the man, I really do, his mecha desgins are some of the greatest we'll ever see...ON PAPER, at least. His engineering skills in the real world need a bit of work.
That said, I believe the Sinanju is his most solid, greatest modeling achievement in his career with Bandai.
Maybe try dabbing some epoxy on the pins before you put it back together and see if that works.
ReplyDeleteckai - i concur but i had problems with that wing design too! outside of that... it was solid. beautifully so.
ReplyDeletetom - good idea. didnt think of that. i did try cement but that didnt do much on the metal.
@Busterbeam - When you said that you tried cement, are you referring to the Tamiya plastic cement you have there with the orange cap? Because it really wouldn't work on metal, as it only affects plastic and nothing else ^^;
ReplyDeleteIn this case, cyanoacrylate (super glue, epoxy) is the way to go. Try epoxy on the parts then cover it up with putty if a gap remains, then sand it down to make it even.
yeaht thats the stuff and i figured that why it didnt work. there was no real bond there. i was just hoping the plastic would melt a bit but it had nothing to melt into really. i'll try the super glue. i thought i had some hear but it turns out that it was sitting here for too long and it... turned to stone.
ReplyDelete