Even though the pictures are there to spell it all out I did, and occasionally still do, find some of this stuff confusing. Take a look. At the top it shows some masking procedures for painting the face vents. Who has time to do all that masking for parts that small?! Why not just hand paint it? Is it not easier? I don't know... It all seemed a little extreme to me for a couple of small parts. That could just be my hand painting bias talking though. Just seems so time consuming and wasteful.
But now here's the confusing part. On this page it shows that the face vents are already yellow parts that are added in separately. So which is it? White or yellow? I really don't know.
Here too. Check out this work on the scythe. What is the point of just puttying up that ONE hollow section. Why not do the whole thing? As far as the other mods in this pic... I really have no idea why he's doing it. Apparently the flat crotch section just bothered him and he wanted to push it out more? Which is funny because I always want to do the opposite. I also thought that it's interesting how the Japanese modelers call the front crotch section a "
Fundoshi". Didn't know that!
I love the work these guys do yet... it's one thing to know HOW but it's entirely another to know WHY.
All images courtesy of
G.G.
About the scythe puttying. Most of the scythe has that opening, but it's all for the hand connection, like the hole that all MG beam rifles have in their handle to allow for stable gripping by the kit. He's puttying the only hole that isn't able to fit with the hand's protrusion.
ReplyDeleteThe MG Deathscythe's head do come with the yellow parts for the side so I have no idea where he got thos white parts from... unless he primed it first (turning it white), then sprayed the yellow paint.
ReplyDeleteHaha... I never questioned "why" they did what they did with their models before. I mean, the limit of the Gunpla is the modeler's imagination right?
However, what baffles me a bit is how the modelers on these "tutorials" seem to do these mods/painting/whatever so effortlessly and in like a zen-like manner. "brush this on, scratch this a bit, wrap the tape like this, spray like this, viola!"... it's soo easy! haha.. yea right.
Pros always make things look easy. The only thing I want to know is do you have to use Mark Setter for the water slides.
ReplyDeleteyou dont really. they're just being extra cautious
ReplyDeleteThat guy did indeed spray the yellow vents white to match the white of the head, then he masked them and painted the individual vents yellow.
ReplyDeleteI'm guessing the reason he did that is because the vents are molded together as one part with more yellow plastic in place of the gaps, so the modeler probably wanted the part to merge better with the white of the head section.
In my case, I'd just blacken the gaps with ink or paint.
@Tom: Mr. Mark Softer is supposed to be better for getting the decal to adhere better to the surface of a kit. Mr. Mark Setter, I recently learned, is just vinegar mixed with water (which supposedly produces the same results when applied to decals). Mr. Mark Setter is supposed to have the real chemicals in it.
yes that makes sense about the white and yellow gaps. now i can understand whats going on. thanks!
ReplyDeleteand vinegar and water? nice! always looking for new home 'remedies' when my chemicals run out!