Saturday, September 26, 2009

Mr. Mark Setter & Mr. Mark Softer

Sounds like the names of real people. "Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer, please come to the office."

Anyways...

It was a nice day yesterday so I decide to ride around on my scooter and enjoy the weather a bit. Went across town to the 'real' hobby shop (Tokyo folks, it's like the Yellow Submarine of Nagoya) and was looking at some AM parts. I've picked up quite a few over the last couple months because I just pick up things that I think look cool regardless of if I need them or not. It's a never a NEED really. More of a WANT. And they're cheap so I can justify buying an extra weapon or 'detail up' part.

This is what I bought today.



Never actually used either of these two solutions before. Can anyone give me advice or direct me to a site that talks about it?

I imagine that it works like the name implies, but are both really necessary? Like couldn't I just use one or the other? I'm under the impression that the softer just melts the decal into place, and the setter keeps it from moving around. Not sure though. It was cheap so I bought both just to try them out. That night I spent more money on a half pint of Guinness than I did on these two solutions.

I didn't think that Aurora stickers would be so expensive (I was expecting to pay under 400 yen) but most of the versions I saw where around 600. I settled on a pack that didn't really give you a lot but were of fairly decently quality and colour effect. Not sure when and how I'm going to use them but... I like having the option. Was also looking at AM thrusters as well but... no... not yet. Those were a bit more expensive than I thought they'd be too.

The metal plate detail part is just to fill in some of the gaps that plastic models have occasionally. Like on the back of the skirt armour or the inside of the shoulder or something.

Extra 1/144 hands just in case. Not that impressed with the stock ones that came with the Odaiba and 0 Gundam. Can't have enough hands. Especially with all the weapons I have for my 1/144's to use.

So there's a peek into my Gundam shopping habits. I buy cheap, random stuff that I don't really need or know how to use with the intention of learning how to use it someday just in case I ever want to kick it up a notch. Although that day I was EXTREMELY close to buying an airbrush set just on impulse. Decided against it. I'm going to do a bit more research before I pick one up but I'm pretty sure that I'm going to be moving into the 'airbrush' zone sooner than later. Specifically after I pay the rent this month. I've spent enough money on spray paints to warrant the cost of getting one. Not to mention I hate all the waste. I mean you're using a big cloud of paint just to paint one small part and you have to do it multiple times to get a good finish. Not to mention aerosol cans and the environment and blah blah blah. Also... really want to try shadowing techniques. There are a bunch of reasons why I think I'm going to get an airbrush soon.

Alright. I'm going to stop here before I digress any further. Been thinking about Gundam stuff a lot recently. More than usual. Looking at the work I've been doing this month, I think I've kicked the meticulousness up a bit too. Spend more time, looking at more details. It's a fun hobby!

11 comments:

  1. uh well heres a link to use the solutions hope it helps u out a bit

    http://www.gohstofzeon.com/diy/waterslides/decalapp.html

    http://kusakusa.wordpress.com/2008/08/13/how-to-apply-decals/

    ps i haf nvr tried da mark setter but the mark softer should be good enough so yea but it depends on what kind of effect u want it to be so yea

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  2. You can check out gunpla-inochi.com, go for the "my tools" section on the top and search for mark setter by scrolling down.

    This thing is used for water decals which "melts" the decals into the plastic surface and you won't accidentally scratch it out anymore. I've never used this nor bought a water decal slide before, but i have the idea how to use it. Only apply this liquid after you 'pasted' the water decal and it has dried.

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  3. Basically it comes down to this.

    Mark Setter basically helps decals stick to the surface. Useful for old decals whoose adhesiveness have worn off.


    Mark Softer is to melt the decals so it looks painted on. Applied only after the decal has set.

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  4. I only used Mr. Mark Setter. And I only started to learn about Mr. Mark Softer just this week. So I was pretty intrigue that you post this topic. Nice.

    Actually, Mr. Mark Setter also soften the decal, creating the painted on decal effect on the kit as well. This is the way I use it (perhaps I've been doing it wrong all along, so pls correct me):

    1. I brush on a light coat of Mr. Mark Setter on the area where I want to place the decal.

    2. I slide the decal onto the kit, move it around with a cotton swab until I am satisfy with my decal placement. Then just let it set into place (let it dry out).

    3. The decal still look a sticker on the kit at this point. So I will do a couple brush stroke of Mr. Mark Setter over the decal. This would soften the decal more, and once is dried, it will look like the decal is painted on the kit. (Don't over do it, or else you might risk smearing your decal into warped shapes)

    Your lifestyle in Japan is like a dream to me. Owning a scooter, riding it in Tokyo....OMG. Extreme Jealousy!!! If I live in JP, I might just be a simple Densha Otoko (hoping to run into Ito Misaki) LOL.

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  5. hey guys thanks for the links. i appreciate that. hopefully i'll have a chance to test it out soon. i think i've got the basic idea down

    G.G. - some coincidence! we're both just getting into mark softener and we both like Misaki Ito.

    it sounds like you're using the setter as an adhesive and as a softening solution as well. ive never tried it so i cant say but i dont think it was intended to be used that way! otherwise wouldnt more people just be doing that instead of buying softener as well? who knows. if it works for you thats all that really matters right?

    yep life in japan is fun! but just to correct you, i dont live in tokyo anymore. my ride my scooter around the Nagoya area!

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  6. Who doesn't like Ms. Ito! In the past I have used the mark softer but not the setter. In my last couple of kits I used neither and the results were fine. However, on the Sinanju with the Wave decals, I am finding that if I am not careful while handling a piece a decal that I had applied a day or so previous can come off on my fingers quite easily. argh! nothing like taking all that time to apply a decal and then having to do the exact same thing the next day. I will be looking into this Mark Setter.

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  7. I looooved Ito Misaki, but my favorite period was in her Hermes role in Densha Otoko. After that, I think she's kind of sucked in the other dramas she's been in... That and she got married. Another dream gone along with Takeuchi Yuko...

    Ahem, I'm the same on buying random parts. I have a bunch of AM parts, but the problem is nice ones just aren't cheap. like 2 or 3 dollars for a single thruster, so for a full set of 2 or 4 you're talking 6-10 bucks... But you see the bad ass pictures online, and you want to do that too. Then you buy them and reality sets in, that it's not as easy as thought, haha.

    As for Softer and Setter, i use softer exclusively now, just wet the slide, put it on, dry off the water, dab on some softer and let it be. After top coating it's usually flawless.

    And you have a scooter? Frickin awesome man. I had a car when I was in northern Japan, but living in the kanto megalopolis, I'd much rather have a scooter, in particular a vespa, thanks FLCL!

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  8. Several varying methods Bb. Best to find the one that works for you. GG's is the one I've seen used most, but with paper towel/cotton swab dabbing to soak up excess. Applying a layer of setter to the part before the decal negates bubbles and helps prevent silvering. Softer is more for sucking that decal into a groove (you can score it for a panel line) or repositionaing it after it's set as is my understanding.

    I too subscribe to the school of buy it with the intent of learning to use it. It's handy and nice to have stuff but not always immediately necessary.

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  9. If you try to reposition a decal after the softer has sunk in then you will end up stretching the decal an it looks like crap (trust me, I know). The softer is good for applying decals to rounded or grooved surfaces. When I post pics of the Sinanju you will see what I mean.

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  10. Gai Gun - yeah the mark setter sounds like it might be useful for you... but if you use the mark softer i think it would solve the problem too.

    ASM - thanks for the advice. Vespa haha interesting choice. I went for a simple Yamaha JOG, metallic black (same as my sinanju haha). pretty standard.

    tonzo - i didnt think of that for the panel lines. either way it looks like im set no matter what situation may arise! haha. i always had a problem getting water slide decals to stick on non gloss coated parts. maybe the mark setter will help with that so i can skip that step and go straight to the flat top coat at the end.

    thanks again for the help guys!

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  11. I have a question, can water decals be used without any other stuff, which includes all kinds of clear coat spray and mark setter/softer? I bought one for my Strike Freedom FBM but if i have to top coat it, that means disassembling the outer armor of the whole kit and spray one by one since i don't want the plated parts to be coated (and mark softer/setter is out of stock at my place). It doesn't matter whether the decals will look like stickers right now because i need time to get mark setter...

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